On our trip to Bhutan last October, we enjoyed
the rugged hike to Tiger’s Nest, gorged on spicy Bhutanese food, sipped locally
brewed craft beer spent our time in traditional homestays, celebrated Tsechu with
the locals- truly an experience like no other.
Reaching Bhutan:
The only airport in Bhutan is in Paro (Paro International Airport). Direct flights to Paro are only available from Delhi, Kolkata and Bagdogra. If you are on a shoestring and do not want to waste money on flights, travel by train to New Alipurduar or Siliguri or Hasimara railway station. Taxis/buses are available from these places to Jaigaon, which is the Indo-Bhutan border town.
We took a flight
from Mumbai to Bagdogra International Airport. From there we took a taxi to Jaigaon.
Cost Breakup:
All tourists, except those belonging to India, Maldives, and Bangladesh need to book their holiday with a Bhutanese tour operator and additionally pay a fixed per day charge of 250$. However, according to new legislation, the visitors from the three countries earlier exempted from the levy fee will have to pay 1,200 ngultrums (Rs 1200.17) per day. For more information, visit https://www.tourism.gov.bt/
Obtaining Permits:
The Phuentsholing Immigration Office is just a two-minute walk from the border gate. Indians do not require a visa, just passport, or voter ID card as a valid identity proof. Carry your hotel confirmations, passport size photographs and a short itinerary to obtain the permit.
You can get a 7-day permit for Thimphu and Paro only from the Phuentsholing Immigration Office. To get your stay extended or to get a special area permit to visit other places in Bhutan, you will need to make a stop at the Thimphu Immigration Office.
Getting around in Bhutan:
The Phuentsholing Immigration Office is just a two-minute walk from the border gate. Indians do not require a visa, just passport, or voter ID card as a valid identity proof. Carry your hotel confirmations, passport size photographs and a short itinerary to obtain the permit.
You can get a 7-day permit for Thimphu and Paro only from the Phuentsholing Immigration Office. To get your stay extended or to get a special area permit to visit other places in Bhutan, you will need to make a stop at the Thimphu Immigration Office.
Getting around in Bhutan:
Buses and taxis are the preferred mode of transport within Bhutan. Buses are extremely cheap but are available at fixed timings only. You can check bus schedules at http://www.rsta.gov.bt/rstaweb/. If you are traveling solo, you can opt for shared taxis, which are readily available in most places. If you are in a group, booking a taxi will not be very costly.
Itinerary:
DAY 1: Phuentsholing
After completing the formalities at
Phuentsholing
Immigration Office, we took a shared taxi to Thimphu. It took us about 4 hours
to reach Thimphu from Phuentsholing. We spent the night in Thimphu.
BHUTAN GATE, PHUENTSHOLING |
DAY 2: Thimphu and Haa
Our stay was walking distance from the Thimphu Immigration Office. We got
special area permits for Haa and Punakha here. We had to return to Thimphu for
the Tsechu later so we chose not to spend much time here and headed
straightaway to Haa.
After a 5-hour journey from
Thimphu, we reached Haa. This sparsely populated and traditional town is scenic
and surreal. The town is untouched by outside influence and the residents
believe in a simple, humble, traditional lifestyle. No high-end restaurants or
hotels are available here. We opted to stay at Chimmi homestay with an old
Bhutanese couple. It was almost dark when we reached so we spent our time
indoors; eating home-cooked Bhutanese meal made with freshly plucked vegetables
from the garden and listening to the couples’ stories of the town.
The morning view from the stay was stunning. After walking just a few steps from our stay, we could hear the Haa Chhu River gushing in the distance. We saw the Indian army base at Haa, where the soldiers were practicing for their annual horse racing festival. We headed to Lhakhang Karpo (White Temple) with our hosts where the locals had gathered to practice for the annual festivities of Haa Tsechu. So beautiful was our experience at Haa that we felt like we could’ve stayed here forever.
Paro, unlike other parts of Bhutan, felt a little too commercialized and was flocking with tourists. After checking in to our hotel, we headed for Rinpung Dzong.
The next morning we started for our trek to Paro Taktsang, famously known as the Tiger’s nest. Legend has it that Guru Rinpoche was carried here, from Tibet on the back of Tigress and hence the name. Perched on the edge of a cliff, this is Bhutan’s architectural wonder. The trek is about 6km and takes about 4-5 hrs. Start as early in the morning as you can, to finish off before noon. The trail is rugged with steep slopes and slippery descent and can be quite tiring, but the view from the top is to die for.
After we finished the trek and rested for a bit, we headed for Punakha.
DAY 6: Punakha
Located at the confluence of two rivers Mo Chhu and Po Chhu, surrounded by hills and full of paddy fields, Punakha is scenic.
Our first stop was Chimmi Lhakhang, a beautiful monastery built in 1499 by Ngawang Choegyel located near Lobesa. The Chimmi Lhakhang also called the ‘Temple Of Fertility’,is frequented by couples seeking blessings for their newborns. Don’t be surprised to find houses with phallic paintings and shops selling phallic-shaped keychains, sculptures, and other souvenirs.
We also visited the Punakha Dzong, which is the second-largest Dzong in Bhutan. Beautifully constructed between two rivers, the Dzong is the center for all religious activities in Punakha. A small hike from the Dzong leads to the suspension bridge. The 520 foot long, iron-change bridge is an important part of Bhutan’s history and offers a scenic view of the valley and rivers.
We headed to the Motithang Takin Reserve to spot Bhutan’s national animal – Takin. We also made a stop at the post office in Thimphu to collect personalized stamps and postcards! Next, we stopped at the Buddha point where a giant golden Buddha statue sits at the mountain Kunzangphodrang. Inside this majestic statue are 125 small Buddha statues.
We had heard a lot about Bhutan’s traditional hot-stone bath, so we decided to try it. The tub is wooden and has a compartment connecting it to the main water tub. Heated hot stones from the river go in the compartment. These stones heat the water in the tub. Medicinal herbs and barks are boiled in water and this medicinal water is added to the tub. The hot stone bath is the perfect way to unwind after a long, tiring journey.
When in Bhutan, party like the locals. Thimphu has many karaoke bars. Head to one such karaoke bar and enjoy Bhutan’s nightlife. While you are at it, try the locally brewed craft beers and peach wine.
We had planned our trip keeping in mind the day of the Tsechu and it surely ended up being the highlight of our trip.
HAA VALLEY, BHUTAN |
DAY 3: Haa and Chele La Pass
The morning view from the stay was stunning. After walking just a few steps from our stay, we could hear the Haa Chhu River gushing in the distance. We saw the Indian army base at Haa, where the soldiers were practicing for their annual horse racing festival. We headed to Lhakhang Karpo (White Temple) with our hosts where the locals had gathered to practice for the annual festivities of Haa Tsechu. So beautiful was our experience at Haa that we felt like we could’ve stayed here forever.
From Haa, we drove towards
Chele-La Pass. About 4000m above sea level, this is the highest motorable pass
in Bhutan. Blanketed in fog and adorned with colorful prayer flags, the pass
was a remarkable sight. The surrounding area of Chele la offers countless
hiking trails and breathtaking views of Mount Jomolhari.
DAY 4: Paro
Paro, unlike other parts of Bhutan, felt a little too commercialized and was flocking with tourists. After checking in to our hotel, we headed for Rinpung Dzong.
Overlooking the
beautiful Paro valley and the Paro Chhu, the Dzong is also an administrative
headquarters. Paro is home to some of the most beautiful monasteries and Dzongs including Taktsang Monastery, Kyichu
Lhakhang Monastery, Drukgyel Dzong, Ta Dzong (which is now the National Museum).
Don’t forget to shop for Bhutanese handicrafts,
stamps, and fascinating souvenirs when in Paro.
PARO, BHUTAN |
DAY 5: Tiger's Nest Trek
The next morning we started for our trek to Paro Taktsang, famously known as the Tiger’s nest. Legend has it that Guru Rinpoche was carried here, from Tibet on the back of Tigress and hence the name. Perched on the edge of a cliff, this is Bhutan’s architectural wonder. The trek is about 6km and takes about 4-5 hrs. Start as early in the morning as you can, to finish off before noon. The trail is rugged with steep slopes and slippery descent and can be quite tiring, but the view from the top is to die for.
After we finished the trek and rested for a bit, we headed for Punakha.
TIGER'S NEST, PARO |
Located at the confluence of two rivers Mo Chhu and Po Chhu, surrounded by hills and full of paddy fields, Punakha is scenic.
Our first stop was Chimmi Lhakhang, a beautiful monastery built in 1499 by Ngawang Choegyel located near Lobesa. The Chimmi Lhakhang also called the ‘Temple Of Fertility’,is frequented by couples seeking blessings for their newborns. Don’t be surprised to find houses with phallic paintings and shops selling phallic-shaped keychains, sculptures, and other souvenirs.
CHIMMI LHAKANG |
We also visited the Punakha Dzong, which is the second-largest Dzong in Bhutan. Beautifully constructed between two rivers, the Dzong is the center for all religious activities in Punakha. A small hike from the Dzong leads to the suspension bridge. The 520 foot long, iron-change bridge is an important part of Bhutan’s history and offers a scenic view of the valley and rivers.
We crossed the Dochula Pass on our journey from Punakha to Thimphu.
Feel the chill in the wind and see stunning views of the Himalayas from this pass. The pass is beautifully decorated with 108 memorial chortens to commemorate the death of 108 Bhutanese soldiers who died in a military operation. The pass tells the tales of the bravery of Bhutanese soldiers. After stopping for a while at the pass, we headed back to Thimphu
PUNAKHA DZONG |
DOCHU LA PASS |
DAY 7: Thimphu
We headed to the Motithang Takin Reserve to spot Bhutan’s national animal – Takin. We also made a stop at the post office in Thimphu to collect personalized stamps and postcards! Next, we stopped at the Buddha point where a giant golden Buddha statue sits at the mountain Kunzangphodrang. Inside this majestic statue are 125 small Buddha statues.
We had heard a lot about Bhutan’s traditional hot-stone bath, so we decided to try it. The tub is wooden and has a compartment connecting it to the main water tub. Heated hot stones from the river go in the compartment. These stones heat the water in the tub. Medicinal herbs and barks are boiled in water and this medicinal water is added to the tub. The hot stone bath is the perfect way to unwind after a long, tiring journey.
When in Bhutan, party like the locals. Thimphu has many karaoke bars. Head to one such karaoke bar and enjoy Bhutan’s nightlife. While you are at it, try the locally brewed craft beers and peach wine.
DAY 8: Thimphu Tsechu
We had planned our trip keeping in mind the day of the Tsechu and it surely ended up being the highlight of our trip.
The Tsechu is an annual celebration held
throughout Bhutan in various Dzongs and Monasteries. The common people and
monks, dance to the sound of cymbals, flutes, yak-horns, and drums. They wear
wooden masks to demonstrate deities, animals, and manifestations of Guru
Rinpoche. People gather in large numbers at the event to seek blessings and socialize.
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